I fell hard for the Eagle jacket from Vanessa Pouzet. I saw the photo on Instagram and knew I had to make it. I bought the pattern from vanessapouzet.com for around 6.00 US dollars. It is an e-Pattern. I know nothing about Vanessa Pouzet, her training etc, but she has some very lovely patterns available. Check her out and you’ll be downloading today.
Check out her photo spread of it. IT’S BELLE!
Copying the pattern
I went through about a ream of paper trying to copy the pattern off accurately with no luck. I then took the file to two different printer shops were we tried to get it right when a manager came by and said they can’t accurately copy e-patterns from A4 sizing. A4 paper/ddimensionswhatever is what is used in most of the world with the exception of the US. I’ve printed e-patterns from Tessuti with no problem (that I know of) so I’m not sure what happened here.
But, I can see that the earlier versions that I copied off are way off proportion even tho the little box that was on the pattern was exactly 2cm x 2cm. So, go figure. I found a A4 converter online and when I printed it off it was much more in proportion BUT, the sizing square was off by a bit.
I bought some very cheap fabric to use as a muslin. Oh, did I mention that all the instructions are in French? Fortunately, Lizzy of SewBusyLizzy has made up the jacket and has offered up tips on how to navigate through it. I never would have been able to get through it. She says, “the construction is slightly unusual”, yes it is. I also didn’t get the “Coat of Many Bloggers” reference but now I get it (it takes a village of seamstresses!) and hopefully, my contribution will only add to it.
I’m going to add to Lizzy’s instructions with a few of my own and some pics that may or may not be useful.
- Doublure Fine = lining
- Tissus = fabric
- Cuir = leather
- Recommended fabrics – Linen, tweeds, light felt, woolens
- Yardage – for outer fabric 110″ x 55″ = approx 3 yards @ 55″ wide, lining for long version 55″ x 55″
- 1/2″ seam allowances
The layout is quite obvious. Just remember to cut 4 shoulder pieces (#2) 2 leather and 2 of fabric. (I didn’t).
Sew these pieces right sides together at the bottom edge, leaving a hole in the bottom for turning out. Set aside.
Sew the shoulder sections together and the front shell starting at the top shoulder, down and the lower edge.
Everything was going well until #4 step “Le Moment Technique (Technique of the moment). Now, I have problems with English directions so keep that in mind.
You are going to sandwich the front shell pieces in between the lining and the back piece.
I took a photo of what I initially did but I don’t even want to show it because it might just cause confusion.
Now, at this point I turned it all through the opening in the back. Once you do that you’ll see how this is all working. It is kind of neat. Be sure to turn it back through the opening after you’ve admired it.
For the Step 5 of the French directions you sew through all four thicknesses. Be sure to only sew up to the mark that is noted on the pattern piece. Fold the hem back on top. I didn’t fold the hem back. I actually, kind of liked it so I left it.
Step 6 is another WTH? I did it wrong the first time. Remember how you do not sew all the way up the sides in step 5? Step 6 you will sew up the sides just not through all the thicknesses. You can see it in the diagram in the directions and maybe my photo will help. As long as you don’t sew through all the thicknesses you’ll get it.
Step 7 is attaching the sleeves and yet another brain twister. Basically you are attaching the sleeves to the outer jacket (shell) and then attaching the lining sleeves to the lining portion.
Step 8 is machining the jacket sleeves hem together and pulling it all out at the bottom hem area.
At step 7 is where I fell off. I tried the jacket on with one sleeve I knew this problem was going to keep the Eagle in the nest. The sleeve is extremely tight and pulls and I didn’t even put the lining in. I have fairly noodly arms as it is and the sleeves are unusually tight.
This may be due to the copying of the pattern, maybe it was just off enough that it doesn’t fit. Maybe I messed up a step. Maybe I copied the wrong size. After looking at Lizzy’s coat and the other French bloggers the arms look rather roomy/normal. Lizzy can push her sleeves up even (Boo hoo!). So, I can only surmise it was either me or the copying of the pattern.
All that work! I’m a little sad it didn’t work out. But, it really was fun trying something new. I may take the jacket to a meetup and see what possibilities exist. Or maybe try to get the pattern printed in A4, but for now I need to take a step back!