Pattern Review: McCalls 7513 Close Fitting Jacket with Peplum

I’ve been wanting to make a jacket for fall 2016 and McCalls 7513 was the one.
Front 7513 mccalls

This pattern is a wearable muslin. The fabric is from an American Sewing Guild Denver fabric sale last year. It’s a wool blend of something, very nubby. I lined it with two different shades of silk from my stash.

The pattern sews up very well. However there are a few things you might want to be aware of.

First is the sleeves. I cut a size 8 for the bodice tapering to a 10 at the waist. I have noodle-y arms that are on the skinny side. I was surprised at how close fitting almost ‘tight’ the sleeves are. If you have more toned arms you might want to do some measurements or a quick muslin of the sleeves before cutting into your fashion fabric. The jacket itself is close fitting, I don’t think I’ll be able to fit a long sleeved T-shirt under it, at least comfortably.

The pattern calls for a lining of the bodice portion so it’s good to pick an appropriate lining fabric. I lined it with a chartruse green silk I had in my stash. Instead of trying to insert silk charmeuse sleeves I simply created a pleat at the top and I think it looks nice.
Lining 7513

Another aspect of the pattern that I liked was the very high armholes. In so many patterns the armscye is ginormous. Not here, the higher position gave better range of motion, but not as much as I’d like. If I raised my arms up over my head I’d probably rip out somewhere.
McCalls 7513

The adjustment I would do on the next one is a narrow chest adjustment. I usually require one, but for some reason I didn’t do it here. I added in a little padding at the shoulder to compensate.

The instructions did not have a lining for the peplum, so I put one in. I would think if you choose one of the alternate views, the ones with the waterfall hem, you would want to line that. I didn’t have enough silk to line both the bodice and the peplum. Fortunately, I had more green in my stash but it is of a slightly different hue. But it works. I also have enough of the rust wool tweed to make a skirt. I hope to get that done before spring time. I will have my first me made suit.

All in all I like the pattern, it was really easy to sew up, the sleeves went in really easy. I had no trouble with this pattern. I would, and will sew this up again!

7513

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