Well I don’t even know what to say about pants fitting. You may recall that Jamie, Kitty, and I attended a Silhouette Patterns one-day seminar in Denver last month. We all had our pants muslin’s fitted by Peggy Sager. And it was with some excitement that I returned home to see what could I could do with my new muslin.
Fitted Silhouette Patterns Pants Peggy had carefully pinned our muslins in various points across our seats and from the crotch. She also pinned our side seams. We were to sew down the pinned areas from seam to seam and mark our new side seams. Then we were to unstitch the darts and trim the muslin down to a 3/8″ seam allowance. Here are my modified pattern pieces. I matched the inseam cut lines so you can see the difference between the muslin and the original pattern pieces.
I then created a pair of pants from the muslin pattern pieces. I used a wool blend purchased from Colorado Fabrics years ago. I’ve never used wool before, so I was amazed to see how nicely it reacts to steam pressing. But oddly, it smells a bit like a dog when steamed. Is this usual for wool?
Here are the pants I made.
The fit is not bad. My only complaint is that I seem to have a mono-butt. My husband says that the fit looks a little geriatric.
New Look 6785 For comparison, I used to make pants from New Look 6785 without any modifications. Sadly, the pants I’ve made are a little too tight now. But now that I look at them with fresh eyes, I can see that they didn’t fit at all!
Walmart Pants I also have really liked wearing pants from Walmart. I bought a whole slew of work pants in 2007. They are all a little too tight now, but I like the fit. It’s a bit more butt-hugging and doesn’t give me the mono-butt look:
I like where the waist sits on these pants as well as the New Look pants I made.
What to Do? My inclination is to disassemble one of my Walmart pants to see how they compare to the New Look and Silhouette Patterns pants. My other inclination is just to run to Walmart and buy new pants in one size larger (and hope that the fit is still the same). What do you all think? Do the Walmart pants seem to fit okay (assuming they were a tad looser)? Maybe something between a mono-butt and butt-hugging is more appropriate for a 50-year old? The thought of having to look for fabric for pants is in itself daunting. What to do?
Denver Sewing Collective 
I am so excited to see that there are fellow sewers in Denver area!
I also took Peggy;s workshop some years ago, with mixed result. Peggy and the ladies liked the fit, me not so much. And I am in Walmart camp – the best fitting pants I have (not ideal) are from Walmart. I did copy them and am quite OK with the fit, still trying to perfect it.
I am going to get in touch with Denver chapter, would be lovely to have some sewing buddies!
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I have also struggled with pant fitting. I found style arc pattern (Barb pant pant patten has the best crotch curve for me longer in the back and way shorter in the front.). This has eliminated all the baggies in the back. I had noticed that in my ready to wear pants this was how they are constructed. I also live in Denver and would like more information on Denversews.com
Sandy Davis
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Switch to skirts? That’s about where I’m at….
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I know some will disagree but I would ask your husband which he finds the most flattering pants and that would be my pick regardless of what’s technically the “best.” Absolutely copy a pair or ready to wear over tweaking a pattern. So much easier and less frustrating!
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[…] side. But really, this is starting to get tiring. My earlier pants-fitting efforts are described here. Maybe I should give those Walmart pants a second […]
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[…] side. But really, this is starting to get tiring. My earlier pants-fitting efforts are described here. Maybe I should those Walmart pants a second […]
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Fitting pants is a challenge, but when you get that perfect fitted pattern you have a priceless master! There is a horizontal dart that you can use to take away the loose fabric below the butt. If you drop the crotch 1/16″-1/4″ and add the dart you might see a difference in Peggy’s muslin pattern. Your pants look great in the front. Don’t give up. It seems like you have lots of ladies offering to assist you and I too will help you. Call me if you need my help. I’m closer than Denver, you decide we’re here to help you.
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Don’t give up! Once you get over that fitting issue (like I know, because I’m still trying to fit mine) but it looks like you’re so close. And, it so worth it.
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Lynne – I see your dilemma. I wouldn’t give up on the Silhouette pants yet. They fit really well in the front. I concur with Denise and think you should take the WM pants apart yet and try to recreate the WM crotch curve on the Silhouette pant. Perhaps Jaime could bring her crotch curve measuring “stick” to the next meetup. And maybe chat with Sylvia about suggestions for mono-butt and upper thigh wrinkles. Maybe the back pant leg is too wide?
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Thank goodness I only wear dresses. š
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Ha ha! I’m with you on that one! More leggings, more dresses! And maybe some yoga pants that don’t pill. Wouldn’t that be cool.
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Just a short comment for now: Don’t tear your Walmart pants apart yet. Try measuring the Walmart pants at the strategic points. Measure the crotch length with the tape measure on edge. Then pull one leg of these pants into the other. Now you can see the back crotch curve and you can trace this curve. Compare these measurements with their counterparts in the Peggy Sagers pattern. Sometimes what is needed is a more L-shaped back crotch curve, or, as I suggest to those I have been working with, a shelf for the butt to sit in. The Denver Chapter of the American Sewing Guild has an ongoing workshop for pants patterns, fitting and sewing. The workshop started as a group seeking the perfect pants pattern, but we have now expanded the concept to include all things pants. If you want more information, please contact me at president.asgdenver@AOL.com .
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Thanks Denise! And it was so nice to meet you Saturday morning! š
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The Peggy Sagers’ pants are too tight in the back crotch. You can tell because that’s where the drag lines are pointing. You might be able to salvage the pattern by releasing that seam. Unstitch the back crotch curve and try on the pants. See if they hang properly, and if so, where the gap shows that more fabric is needed. Then adjust the pattern to accommodate that additional fabric.
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Your experience with the Peggy Sagers pants fitting workshop reminds me of my experience several years ago. Neither of us got a decent-fitting pattern that was worth using again. Your Walmart pants are obviously the best-fitting of the group. There’s a book you might want called Making Patterns from Finished Clothing. The explanation for making a pants pattern from pants you like is clear, and I think you could do it without sacrificing the pants you have if you wanted to keep them. You would simply add along the side seams to make the new pair a little looser. I would definitely zip over to Walmart and see if I could get the next size up. There’s no age limit on wearing flattering pants.
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I think I’m going to sacrifice my Walmart pants because I doubt I’ll ever fit them again! They are so close to fitting well. I can compare them with my Peggy muslin and see what the difference is.
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Lynn, now that I know who you are, bring your pants over and I will help you. Just give me a call!
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To me, your Peggy Sagers pants have a lower crotch and maybe that is why they are “grandma”. Walmart pants have a closer fitting crotch area. Maybe if you shorten the crotch length? Just a thought.
There’s a class offered by Stephanie Lincecum (no affiliation) on Craftsy which teaches how to duplicate the fit of a RTW piece without taking it apart. I did not take the class but do have her book.
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I second Kat. Take them apart to compare. Here’s hoping for a cheeky pair you’ll love.
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cheeky pair….
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I have been a master pant fitter since 2004. Peggy has you on the right track, if you want help fitting the pants the rest of the way let me know. I am a member of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals, Denver Chapter.
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Thanks Karen! And it was nice meeting you on Saturday morning š
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How disappointing that the Peggy Sagers seminar pants didn’t fit well! It will be interesting to see if Jamie and I have the same results with our Peggy Sagers pants. That’s assuming I ever get around to making them – LOL!
I think taking the Walmart pants apart and comparing them to your existing pants pattern is a great idea. Go for it!
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I think the Walmart pants look best too. I’d say sacrifice a pair now in order to modify your patterns…even if they still carry that line now they’ll do away with it eventually, right? Good luck!
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